Travel, Thanks, Turkey - Time is a flyin'

Every day is becoming more full. more routine. and unfortunately, colder. We had our first rain since my grand entrance, and the nights get wickedly cold. Couple that with an empty gas 'bombona' and you are taking ice cold showers in ice cold weather. The result: numb toes, lots of tea and a down sleeping bag. But the days are warmer, and the sky feels tremendous when it has a thick cloud cover.

The past two weekends I have traveled. Last weekend to Sevilla, for my first time, and I returned today from Jerez. Sevilla is the capital of the region, about 2,5 hours from Ronda and it is just majestic. It has wide avenues with new metro trams, right next to old cathedrals, and a beautiful Arabic fortress, the Alcazar in the middle of the city. I went with Saskia, and we stayed with a couple belgium girls that had come and visited us the weekend before. It was a whole different world from little Ronda, and a very beautiful city. After the complicit tourist sights, we hit the streets and literally shopped till we dropped. There was a moment that evening when we were frolicking in the narrow cobblestoned streets and we said, "Estamos en Espana!!" and I said, "Estamos en Eurpoa!" and being the only nonEU citizen, they said 'but we are always in europe." and two had enevr been outside of europe. a very different experience for me.. as someone who as traveld a good deal throughout europe.. and yes I can certainly distiguish and appreciate the diversity of culture between borders, but it was also eye opening, to realize how much of a different perspective I bring to Spain that someone who comes from another European country. And I felt very grateful to have had the opportunity to travel and be exposed to so many different environments. The weekend ended at a Sunday market on the edge of town. It was a wonderfull flea market feel, with many immigrants and an eclectic cultural mix that made me feel like for a moment I was in Latin America.. a continent that I think of often, and still miss during my time in spain. Nothing here has come close to the natural vibrancy of life in Latin America. And although a bit peculiar - there is nothing like directly facing and experiencing a social injustice like extreme poverty to rile me up and feel impassioned to make change. Although I love teaching.. there is something tremendously fulfilling about even writing a report on international development or microfinance.

That Thursday was Thanksgiving. Known as Dia de Accion de Gracias here. People knew impressively little about the holiday, and so it was enjoyable to share it with all of my students. It was a week FULL of drawing hand turkeys, learning beak, wing, feather, singing the Turkey Dinner Song (hand movements a must) and for the advanced groups writing Thanksgiving acostic poems about what we are thankful for. I explained what stuffing is, gravy, pumpkin pie, the Thanksgiving Classic, Macy´s Day Parade, Black Friday, homesick, the Pilgrims.. todo. I must have sung that Turkey Dinner Song at LEAST 78 times. Then it came time for my own Turkey Day celebration, and thanks to (no pun intended) technology I got to see my whole family via Skype. Jen and I had an unconventionally lovely Thanksgiving dinner at around 10:30 pm when we got off work. It included Chicken, french fries, spanish wine, Flamenco Dresses and candlelite. Hermosa.

The next day Jen I am were off to Jerez de la Frontera- a town of about 200,000 people, where we met up with 2 other girls from Georgia that were doing the same program. One of them works in Jerez, and so we all stayed with her (economical - ya know?). We arrived in the rain, a little biased that our city is the absolute best, but the city and weekend proved to be splendid. I found it to be authentic, typical piece of Spain in a way more polished tourist cities aren´t. Lots of churches, old narrow windy streets, grandiose fountains. But what Jerez is also known for is horses and Wineries. Jerez means Sherry. So after the most non-mexican food I have ever had (i´ve never considered myself a food snob, but SuperRica would have found it comical) - the next day we went to a winery. Although the tour was sold out, we took pictures and enjoyed the senery. We saw some horses, and then decided to go to a cafe and have our own Sherry taste test. So we ordered a sample of all the local sherries they had. The conclusion: We don't like Sherry. After chatting it up with a national mens basketball team the night before (in the grocery store buying gatorade), we headed off to a basketball game. Free tickets. Front row. Very different than a Lakers game in the states. For instance - no hot dogs or cheerleaders! This is more of a sunflower seed crowd. But I was up in the action.. "VAMOS CHICOS!" "DEFENSA!" "CORRE" "REBOTE" Rest assured, I compensated for the lack of cheerleaders at the game too.
After tapas, the highlight of the weekend for me was yet to come.

In Andalucia, and especially Jerez, the Christmas season involves a festivity called a Zambomba. It is a bonfire-like event, where you sing Flamenco Christmas carols and dance flamenco. Amazing right? This one was in a warehouse type place, with a bar. There was a circle of chairs for the "musicians" (mostly tambourine players) and everyone crowded around the outside clapping and chanting. It was spectacular. Feet stomping, clapping, instrument shakers, and belting out at the top of your lungs. A zambomba is also an instrument.. it is a bucket, with cloth over the top, with a stick going through it. So you move the stick up and down to hit against the bottom of the bucket. with the cloth it makes a boom sound. the zamboma and another drum keep the beat. It was especially rewarding to be familiar with the claps and rhythms from my flamenco class. I even busted out a couple little flamenco moves. And when we left, there were people all out in the street the place was so filled. And you could feel the energy bouncing off the walls. As my mom said.. now THAT is Spain.

The weekend was also nice, as a time to share with other people from my program in life back home. Only two months in.. I am already looking towards my next chapter, and planning, applying, writing, researching. And it was nice to share with the other girls in topics of graduate school, thesis talk, linguistics, family, and the world back home. I am busy with applications, getting recommendations, scholarships, fellowship, graduate school. It is a lot to think about. A lot to plan. and definitely a lot of work. But I also enjoy it, and I think the reason it is overwhelming is that there are so many options. I could do just about anything, come June. So we'll see where the wind blows me.

For now, we have school, lesson plans, school, flamenco, independent films, school, applications, decorating my apartment for christmas inexpensively, and today I am heading off to a conference for the weekend with ActionAid International - an international development organization. Looking forward to meeting some movers-and-shakers!

Fotos

Some photos if you have the ganas (interest) -

Ronda y Mas:
http://ucdavis.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2206645&l=5c121&id=3202326

and Sevilla this past weekend. Wonderful:

http://ucdavis.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2206652&l=2fdb2&id=3202326

Hope all is well!!!

Flamenco, Film clubs and Gratitude

I figured it was time for another update. Since I have begun my second teaching position, and gathered a few private students I must confess that time has been escaping me, in the best possible of ways. The past 6 weeks have flown by, and I foresee these 8 months ending before I am ready. I find myself with many more ideas for lesson plans and cultural projects there there is time in the day to do. So I am learning to prioritize and face reality in order to maximize time in the classroom.

But now for the present: I wake up every day knowing that I will learn something that day - whether it is a piece of Spanish grammar that I have been saying incorrectly for the past 8 years, or a new hot spot for local live music. And I look forward to coming home to my roommate, Jen, to compare notes on new vocabulary words, and share stories and our common love for Ronda. We share our dreams and fears, our ambitions and passions. And incorporate our lives into lofty metaphors of rolling stones, and polishing creators.

Since my last report, I have discovered beautiful niches tucked away in Ronda. In a town that is seemingly homogeneous, and with coworkers that are mostly twice my age, I was skeptical that this was the place for me. I am certainly not in college bubble any longer, and can now appreciate the ease with which I have found like-minded friends so far; however I have also found that each person has something special to offer. And there lies great danger in making quick assumptions. I have found myself invited to the home of a dance therapist who cooked a lovely lunch of typical northern spanish fare, and I met her au pair from Poland. I enjoyed a local live jazz concert that plays the first friday of every month, and hopefully will go to their next rehearsal to jam a little. I also went to a classic Spanish 16th century play, "La Vida es Sueno," which brought to life some of the material I had learned in a Spanish course last year. I've had conversations with many peers who are also mother about their children. I tutor a young woman who is an Industrial Engineer, one of two women in her class, and who is paying out of pocket to improve her English (which is very good) and go to MBA school parttime. Inspiring! I've found time to read on my balcony (a luxury that I unfortunately don't have as much time for nowadays); and I have become a regular at a local Independent Film Club.

The Independent Film group was a real find. It is a small group of people who meet every Tuesday night to watch quality spanish independent films. (As it goes in Ronda, I knew about half the group.) And the movie is followed by a lengthy discussion around a table with a bowl of olives, a bowl of peanuts and some beverages. It is exhilarating to be surrounded by people who are engaged in the arts, and have a somewhat pretentious conversation about film themes and camera angles in Spanish.

Last weekend: I went to Marbella, a costal town nearby, for the day on Friday. Along with the joy of laying on the beach in am bathing suit and the smell of salt water, I also got tremendous pleasure from stopping at and purchasing from EVERY bakery we came across, with my sweet-tooth-partner-in-crime, Jen. We had quite the feast on the busride home. That night we participated in a regular intercambio event at a local pub, and had the first night of all out DANCING. We went to a dance club early (2 am) and since there was no one there, we were able to bust out our moves. Dancing has been the main thing that I have missed since I arrived in Ronda. It is peculiar, but this just simply isn't a dancing community, and although there are spaces to dance, people are rather timid. But, have no fear, A.Tianna is here to teach Ronda how to boogie.
I also went on an excursion with the local Teacher's Association, on a hike through the countryside to a cave. Very beautiful at the time of year, with leaves changing colors, and we are fortunate to have unseasonably warm weather during the day. It gets bitingly cold at night, but the days are warm and sunny. At the end of the hike we went to a restaurant and had a HUGE typical Spanish meal, with olives, chorizo, salad, wine and a Rabbit Paella. Yes, it was my first time eating rabbit, and although I had to push thoughts of little Thumper out of my mind, it was mighty tasty. That night was another out until 6 am night, that begun with playing pool and darts and more dancing with born and raised Rondenos. The last song of the night was Imagine, by the Beatles; it was great to hear a whole pub full of Spaniards belting out the lyrics. I was also able to bust out some of my moves I had learned in my first couple weeks of Flamenco dance classes. I am loving the class, again of people all at least twice my age, and a feminine bunch. I feel professional as I practice in my living room, showing off to my audience - my roommates. I am confident that my feet stomping, arms flailing, and fingers twirling will soon take shape, and I will be stupendous! For now, I have a supportive audience. I've decided - all i need is the dress.

Sunday, I read up on Spanish history and current politics, to try and fill in the gap that is my horrific ignorance of Spanish history. The highlights of what I learned: They were under a dictatorship, Franco for 40 years. Up until 1975, when he died everything was very traditional, and there was much censorship and conservative standards of living. One of the good things Franco did do was increase tourism to the country, and boosted the economy. There is all sorts of complexities of policies when the power was lifted and transition was made; that included the legalization of birth control, but without any education to go along with it. Jump to present day Spanish politics and we have a king and an active president. The President/Prime Minister, Zapatero, is of the Socialist Workers Party. He made Spain the first country in the world to give equal marriage and adoption rights to gay couples in 2005. My studies proved incredibly rewarding when the next day at school the teachers were talking about a comment the King made to Hugo Chavez, and I had read the article!!

So, in between lesson plans and teaching, I am trying to make the most of this experience.
I try and take the time, often with my roommate, to go down to the Mirador that looks over the beautiful valley at sunset and realign my equilibrium and find peace in the world. I write in my journal and ponder life and what my plans may be at the end of these 8 months. There is something about living in a new and foreign place that makes us live such rich lives. But it doesn't need to be that way. It is not as if I am traveling. I am simply loving every little thing. The smell of fresh bread from the bakeries, the feeling of children running up and hugging my calf, 'hola!', teaching a pop song to students, or drenching my bread with olive oil. Going on hikes, reading books, taking pictures of sunsets. These are all things you could do anywhere. But there is something about the way we choose to look at the world, and the people we surround ourselves with, that can be especially inspiring, uplifting and beautiful. I have been doing an annual thanksgiving fast with my friend the past couple days, as a way of focusing on everything that I am grateful for, and boy.......there sure is a lot. I think I'm going to break fast tonight with leftover Rabbit Paella.

Teecha Ahteeana

I got a call when I was in the Alhambra parking lot from a woman named Donna. She spoke english clearly and slowly, and said that she had a job opportunity for me , and had gotten my name from friends at the Escuela de Idiomas (where I work). I would be the lectora (that is my title) at a second school, if i was interested. She said she quit after a week, and needed to find a replacement. 'Gosh, quit after a week? What is this all about?' I thought. I was intrigued and we met for coffee a couple days later. I met a delightful, jubilant 60 year old woman from the US who has been living in Ronda for 7 years. Since then I have been to her house in the country, grown accustomed to her calling everyone darling and sweetie, and heard about both husbands, her photography business, her career as a professional masseuse, life without electricity in rural northern spain where she was stranded in her house for months when the water came up too high, her opinion on british travelers, tea and history... I could go on and on. She is a delight, and very generous.

As for the position, it is at Juan de la Rosa, a semi private/semi public school (families dont pay) that includes infantile (preschool), primaria (primary) and secundaria (secondary) school. Ages 3 through 16. I heard stories about 'wild indians' from Donna and how she had caught a cold by the end of the first week. But I decided to give it a whirl. The position is designed to expose all the school to a native english speaker. So I go to every class for a half hour. I would teach there 8 hours a week, mondays and tuesday, and the small stipend salary is certainly welcome. And boy, I can say i have never appreciated the job Elementary school teachers as much as I do now! Wow.

Day #1: last Monday. So Monday was not so bad. I came at 10:30, taught the 9 year olds, and we had a coffee and toast break at 11. Not so bad right? Then it was time for the kindergardeners..... 5/6 year olds, very nice. Well behaved. We colored in pumpkins and ghosts. Next was time for youngest preeschoolers - the 3 year olds. ..... only, really - half the class is 2 years old. TWO! How do you teach English to a child that cant sit in his chair for more than 5 minutes before he wets his pants, and his trousers are down to his knees as he trots to the bathroom? If you know the secret, please fill me in. Otherwise it was a half hour of blue, blue, blue, green, green, green, yellow, yellow, yellow. And the teacher in between would scold the children harshly for not sitting in their chair properly. 'They're two years old. They shouldn't even be sitting in chairs; they should be waddling around the playground!' But they did learn Teecha Ahteeana. The teachers at the school are called seno - short for senora/senor. As the token English teacher I get the special name of Teacher A.Tianna. Just two more classes that day, 8 year olds and 10 year olds. A little precocious, but attentive, engaged, and fun.

Day #2: I started off with the preschoolers again. First 5 year olds, and I was ready: blue, blue blue, green green green.... What I was not prepared for the 4 year olds. Their teacher was preparing for the Fall Breakfast (A deceiving title. It should be renamed the Fall Cake Fest... there were more pies, cakes, cookies, flans, and sweets piled on table after table than I had ever seen! and it was certainly one of the most delicious events I have been to). Anyways. Class of 20 four year olds - and me. Teecha Ahteena. When I walked in they were quietly coloring in their coloring books, but for the next half hour it was mayhem! I had cut out orange construction paper pumpkins to draw faces on, and between comparing them with their friends, running up to me to show me their, pulling on my shirt.."look at mine look at mine!" - I was spinning. Then i turned around and there is one playing with the toys in the corner, and by the time i get him back in his seat there were two more are arguing over a pen, while everyone else is jumping up and down from their seat, shouting, with their hands flying trying to get my attention. My new song.. "siiiiilent, siiiiilent, siiiiiilent" wasn't working. And as soon as I finally got the pumpkins out of their hands and onto the wall - it was time for the Fall Breakfast (I cant imagine those children with more sweets in them!) I literally RAN to the next class in the other part of school, and show up out of breath as I try to introduce myself to 35 ten year olds. More coloring and drawing of Halloween characters. This time I am more than ready for the 11 am coffee and toast break. Another tricky part of running class to class is that there is no time to make photocopies of your materials. And with one photocopy machine, i feel a little conspicuous making 300 copies while other teachers are waiting and watching. Teachers that teach 30 students each. So I always hope that we will have enough. A couple teachers teach English part-time, (one in secondary school and two in primary,) although their English is not at a very high level, and I quickly understood the value of my position. There are nuances to the language that they are not familiar with. For example, one teacher walked into class, set her papers down on the desk and shouted SHUT UP! to the class. Not something that translates exactly, right? After I got ahold of myself and closed my widely gaping mouth, I tried to explain that 'Be Quiet' might be a more appropriate phrase for a classroom. The afternoon I had the drill down. Show up, introduce myself, talk about Halloween, maintain order, and grab my books and bag and RUN to the next class. Catch my breath, introduce myself, and do it again. And again. Until it is 2:30 and I am beat! Especially with those witty teenagers. Phew! Quick lunch at the comedor cafeteria before I walk quickly to the other school and pull out my prepared lesson plans there. I am all worked up, sweating, and the other teachers are rolling in calmly from a leisurely lunch. The students were polite and well behaved. I can now appreciate my Language School and the splendid students even more now.

Now this is not to say that I didn't enjoy the school. I had a very good time! It was fun. And I feel like every week I will get a better handle on it. It is exciting, certainly fast paced, and a satisfying experience. Feeling like you are an active participant in the formation of a young person, and trying to serve as a good role model is both challenging and rewarding. And like i said, I am very thankful all those remarkable Ms Sandells, Ms Careys, Ms Ennis, Mr Hugh, Ms Mackie, Mr Carreto, and of course Senora Calderons. Especially being a drifter teacher is difficult. And I am continuously looking back on the memories I have from my elementary school experience and attempting to emulate the role models I was fortunate to have at such a young age. Teaching animated, enthusiastic, kind students is really a treat, and I am glad that I have a language that I am able to share with them. Everything from jack-o-lantern, blue and yellow, to the difference between beautiful and handsome (I corrected several young girls when I showed them a photo of my brother, and they said -" he very beautiful." giggling). I look forward to sharing more, and constantly have ideas churning about how I can engage them next time. In the language school I was able to tell scary story and have them fill in the verbs -lights off for ambiance, of course. And we made scary stories ourselves, going around the circle.

Halloween was a success as well. We had our first party at our piso. I had decorated the entire Language School with tons of paper pumpkins, bats, ghosts, and of course the spider web stuff covering the hallway, and for the party I borrowed some. Our house was decked out. I had a sign on the door that said enter if you dare... and tealights in the fire place, on the table and in the tv center on one wall. There were signs for the snacks, like - olives were eyes, and little pickles were little pinkies, carrot sticks were zombie fingers, and corn nuts were finger nails. salami was bat tounges, and bewitched cookies, etc. It was fun to do all that in Spanish since i had been teaching about Halloween in English all week. We had a very nice turn out of mostly my colleagues and friends. And for almost everyone it was their first Halloween party! There were vampires, superman, a pirate, a santa claus type. And I was Madre Tierra (Mother Earth) with a homemade wreath crown of leaves.

So all in all, I am learning a tremendous amount everyday. And enjoying all the aspects of my life that seems to be building itself. I am currently reading (very slowly) La Sombra del Viento and still eating my salads on the balcony. More and more time is being dedicated to lesson plans, teaching and most recently tutor. I am gather private students quickly. And now I teach approx 500 students a week, 700 students in total. More people to say 'hola' to on the streets of Ronda!