Friday, December 21, 2007

The Three Kings

So for the most part, Santa Claus doesnt visit the homes of children in Spain. Instead it is the Reyes Magos (The Three Kings, or the Three Wise Men - depending on your translation from the Bible). Alongside everyones christmas tree is is not only a nativity scene but an entire reconstruction of the town of Belen (Bethlehem) with rivers and houses and trees and people. Each school also has elaborate Belens that are judged and prizes are awarded. The one at Juan de la Rosa was huge, had a pond, and the light magically shifted from daytime to nighttime, with little lights in the houses all lite up and the moon aglow in the background.

Now. The Three Kings. A friend asked me right after I finished the last blog if I wanted to be a Rey Mago this year, they were short on volunteers. I said "yes, of course!" and boy did I not know what I was getting myself into. But 9 am the next morning I arrived for costume and make-up at the city council building - in the extracurricular education office. Along with one of the teachers i work with, Antonio (his wife is the director of the department, so he was obliged to volunteer for the job) and another woman....we all piled on the costumes, royal robes, gloves, rings, wigs, beards, gaudy rings, and of course the crown. Meanwhile I was trying to fill in the complete blank slate that is my knowledge of the three kings. "What are the names of the kings?" "Which one am I?" "Did I bring frankincense, gold or myrhh?" "Do they say anything special - like how Santa says Ho Ho Ho?" I was the brown-haired one, Gaspar, who brought the frankincense. And they encouraged me that I would be even more convincing because with my accent it would seem as if I had really come from the Orient.
So trying not to trip over my robe that was about 8 inches too long, and seeing where I was going in the fine slit between the shaggy moptop of brown wig and the beard and mustache getup that was attached - I hopped into the city council van. I meet the director of education, the mayor and many more people along the way.

And then we arrived. Now, my vision before we got there was that we would walk around to the classrooms for a few minutes with a bag of candy and say Feliz Navidad. No no no. Silly me. There is the big production of the Nativity Play, and then every class sings a prepared christmas carol.. and then the Reyes Magos arrive. Grand entrance, very serious - with eyes of the entire school, students, teachers, parents and hundreds of cameras - all on you. So we walk slowly like a processional to the stage, where there are 3 thrones ready for each of us. We wave royally, befopre sitting. And at the first school they decided to do an interview with the three kings!! My heart jumped - what if i didnt understand? or i didnt know the answer, with my rough draft understanding of the biblical history of it all. But I sailed through the interview, and it was time for the kids: Every single child climbed right up onto the stage and SAT ON MY LAP - santa claus style. I follwed suit with what the others were doing and lifted them up onto my knee. I asked them: "Has sido bueno este ano?" "Have you been good this year?" "What do you want for christmas?" And some had a little present, so I would know their name when they approached me. That really frightened the little ones. And there were a few that I couldnt read, or it was the wrong present - so I had to make something up like "Why, my goodness, you have grown so much this past year I didnt even recognize you! Of course you are not Juan, you are Jose!" If I didnt know their name I would fill in with the common playful nicknames here such as Guapa, Senorita, etc. There was a hush in the crowd when I hoisted one kid onto my knee and somehow my crown went flying off with a clatter on the ground. Keeps you on your toes, to say the least. All the while, you are also trying to make sure the kid turns around so that the parents that are all elbowing each other in the back of the crowd can get a good picture of their little one on the Rey's lap.

Well, one school down. Two to go. . . . And 5 hours later I was a pro Gaspar. I could hold my head up regally without worrying that my crown would slip off, and could just sweep the kids off the ground and into my lap. I must have seen hundreds and hundreds of children that morning, mostly ages 3, 4 & 5. Every one had written a letter to one of the Kings, telling them what they wanted for christmas to which I responded "Thank you. I can't wait to read it." And most kids had a favorite king too. The last school was a very catholic school that is taught by nuns, but in true Spainish style - it is still public. I was eager to see what these nuns were all about. Conservative? In black? Strict? They turned out to be the hippest of them all, dressed in everyday clothes and invited us to drink a licorice liquor afterwards. Nuns drinking!

A quick change back to reality. We hung up the robes and wigs - until next year. And I walked home without any turning of heads or salutes to the Three Kings. I continued on, and almost to work I spotted one of the girls that had sat on my lap just a few hours before - walking home with her parents. I expected her to turn any second and wave or cheer. But she didnt. I was just another passerby on the street. And this was just another day in Ronda.

Saturday, December 15, 2007

Its beginning to look a lot like Christmas...

Everywhere you turn...

All the streets in Ronda (and every other city in Spain) are lined with christmas lights of all shapes and colors and sizes. It makes for a very festive feel, as I get into the spirit of the season. As far as decorations go, they are big on tinsel here and fake christmas trees. Some have little santa clauses climbing up the balcony of their apartment and shopwindows are decked out in the season. Also, since I am in a catholic country they do not have the same conciousness of 'Happy Holidays" "Season's Greetings" or "Winter Break" that we are so PC about - in order to respect all cultures a tradition. Everyone celebrates Christmas, and everything is Christmas this, nativity scenes that, and of course the three kings.

Although Santa Claus (Papa Noel) is creeping onto the scene here, he doesnt visit the majority of homes here in Ronda. The big gift distributor is the Reyes Magos (the three Kings) who come on Jan 6th. And so christmas vacation is Dec 22 through Jan 8th allowing for that celebration. Some lucky children get visits from both: the reasoning being that then the kids get to play with their toys longer during vacation. And overall, the spirit of the season is not about gift giving, which is very refreshing for me. It is about spending time with family, with a traditional big dinner on Christmas Eve and a lunch on the 25th. The holiday celebration does not revolve around present by any means, which - if you ask me - is the way it ought to be. I have learned several spanish christmas carols, that involve clapping and are flamenco style. Very fun. And I have also decorated my apartment (on a budget) with christmas lights, poinsettias, stockings and tinsel.

Also, there is a Christmas Lottery - which is HUGE here. Everyone buys a lottery ticket., or multiple, and the winners are announced December 22nd. I thought I might get into the spirit and feel like a true spanish woman - until i found out that each lottery ticket is 23 euros!!! I was thinking - ya know - 1 euros. No, no. Can you just imagine!? And that some people buy one with each number ending - spending 300 euros or more! Every culture has its little quirks I suppose, but I diecided to sit this cultural experience out. Another addition to the christmas spirit was today they set up speakers on the main street that blast christmas music for the shoppers (who are our in full force). This is lovely for the shoppers, howver for those of us that live directly above these shoppers listening to christmas carols 18 hours a day may get a little tiring (even for me).

I have been delivering my full dose of christmas carols to the student the past couple weeks too. One day I sang for at least 8 hours - nonstop christmas carols! The repetoire includes "We wish you a Merry Christmas" and "Jingle Bells" (the 2 staples); "The 12 Days of Christmas" (good for practicing numbers) "Silent Night" (classic) "Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer" (with the echos) "White Christmas" and "Chestnuts Roasting on an Open Fire." There is also lots of drawing on the blackboard of christmas trees, presents, mistletoe, reindeer, etc. We sing so much in my classes that the students have learned to expect it right from the moment I walk in the room! :)

Other highlights from the past few weeks:

-the conference I went to with ActionAid International was a blast! 100% spanish and 100% passionate about issues of international development in Latin America. It felt good to be part of an engaged community, and also wiggle my feet in the sand at the beach that was about 30 yards from our hotel.

-Last Thursday I went on an 18 mile hike (30 kms) from Ronda to another white village through the country side with my hiking group. The company was great, and the scenery stupdenous. We are training for a 100 km (62 mile) extravaganza that is coming up in the spring.

-On Friday my Flamenco class had a little christmas celebrations (all 6 of us) with a bottle of christmas wine and some christmas pastries. We would drink a little, dance a little, drink a little dance a little. At 10:30 am we were all loosened up to dance flamenco. Oh spain!

Speaking of Spanish Christmas pasteries let me elaborate.The primary christmas sweet here is Mantecados. When I first tried one I devoured it in an instant . I reached for another, and another. They melt in your mouth. Delicious. 'And they aren't too chocolate-y,' I thought. One day I decided to read the label to find out what was in these magical goodies. Ready? In this order: Flour, Sugar, Lard, Chocolate. Let me repeat: Flour... Sugar.... LARD... Chocolate!! That is not even a 'I'll have some lard with my chocolate'. It is a 'I suppose I will have some chocolate with my LARD.' Well, needless to say, I have packed on some good spirited christmas pounds into my love handles. And although I paused for a good 5 minutes while I took in the immensity of calories I was consuming; I quickly resumed my eating and enjoying. There are also other flavors of Mantecados - lemon, almond, orange. I prefer the chocolate.

Another lovely moment in my Mantecado education: One day I was drinking my coffee and drenching my bread with olive oil, as usual during recess at school. This particular day there was a basket of individually wrapped mantecados on the table that people were eating. At this point I had already discovered the fact that mantecado=calorie bomb, so i politely declined. But people were munching away, no problem. Then at the end of the meal someone mentioned - "oh yeah, those are the leftover manetcados from last year." LAST YEAR?! I thought. And was eager to share that with my friends at the next school. Turns out it is not uncommon. They thought nothing of it! Well I'll be. These are sure the most fascinating pastery I've come across.


So this is the last week of school, as I imagine it is for many of you. Hope this finds you well, enjoying the festivities as you slave away at finals, work and last minute shopping. I hope you enjoy the holiday spirit, sing some christmas song, drink eggnog and eat some gingerbread cookies by the fire. I am looking forward to a caroling show and a play at the elementary school, along with some christmas arts and crafts, a visit from the three wise men, and my brother coming tovisit me at the ned of this week. Happy Holidays!