Sorata

My weekend oasis was just what I needed. I picked the right spot. Sorata is a town up in the forested aread of Bolivia. It is not far distance-wise from La Paz, but the journey is tedious due to unpaved roads. It is tucked away in a hill and the only paved road is that which surrounds the town plaza. But the village, of 6,000 ,extends into the hills with some houses very remote. This morning I awoke to the sound of churchbells calling everyone to sunday mass, and the bustling of vendors getting ready for the big market day. My planned outing was to a cafe that was off the Lonely Planet map, but recommended. So I hiked. And hiked. and turns out, I was hiking the wrong way. So I hiked some more, crossed creeks where women were bathing, rivers where men had pulled their cars to wash them, and attempted to ask locals if there was a cafe up that narrow road. They only spoke the local dialect unfortunately, and directed me to the daughter to translate. Sure enough I arrived. And that is no small feat in this altitude. Nothing like a good sweat before breakfast.
It was beautiful. A lawn with grazing llamas, chickens flutering down below, and a gorgeous view of the farmladen hillside. The 'cafe' was nothing more than a bamboo hut with a couple tables out front with colorful bolivian tablecloths. There a wooden bench that had old car seats in it to add coushining. Clever. In this cafe I had the most fresh meal I believe I have ever had. I had fresh baked bread by the swiss owner, orange juice from the orange tree in the yard, cut and squeezed before my eyes, hot chocolate, eggs, from the chickens in the yards, and yougurt naturale. Now, I was expecting natural yougurt like the kind you buy at Trader Joes. Oh no. The 9 year old neighbor came running over with an old jam jar cover in celophane, with homemade yogurt from their cow. Talk about sustainable living! Now I must admit I do prefer the trader joes variety, but it was fresh nontheless. I even got a ride into town with the swiss owner of the cafe.. who was heading in for the baptism of his godchild and to pick up supplies for the week. What a lovely morning. Topped off with in the plaza: my photocopy version of harry potter in spanish I bought off the street in La Paz. Highly illegal, but the real version is not out yet in Bolivia. I had no choice!
And then I returned on the cozy minibus. I knew the drill. Sardine vendor on my right (imagine how she smelled) and school boy on my left. Windows closed because the dirt roads kick up too much dust. Broke the record. 22 people in the van. 5 hours later, return to La Paz. Ready for my big day tomorrow... .I think I may even shower.